The following link https://blog.fullingmill.com/author/rob-edmunds/ details my on-line Blog with Fulling Mill. The articles give good in depth advice and aren’t “you must buy these products” – It’s cheaper than buying a magazine – and provide the same information & tactics !
Also watch the Fulling Mill You Tube video’s (just google Rob Edmunds Fulling Mill Video) – they provide actual footage of what to do in real time fishing scenarios – which I personally think is easier to understand and shows you exactly how to fish certain methods
As I have grown older it’s fair to say I have matured a little as a person and as an angler.
I once wanted to catch the most fish, then the biggest, and now I am content to catch fish the way I want too.
Personally I get more satisfaction when I have caught on a challenging day when conditions are against me than on an easy one. My goals are now my own and I don’t feel that I have to prove anything to anyone…..Hence the reason I like to fish different waters/countries and for different species – I wanted different experiences and to challenge myself.
However one desire still remains as strong as ever…..I need to catch fish………. I don’t subscribe to “Oh it’s just nice to be out” If that was the case I would take up walking or golf. I want to catch fish and will do everything I can to achieve my goal, Once I’ve worked it out and catch consistently I may change or move because it’s no longer a challenge..
OK – I always think its best to talk generally – and be interactive, Ideas should be challenged as it’s the only way we can drive the sport forward with new ideas and methods…..my beliefs are not always correct and nor are anyone else’s – so challenge .
Fishing is not difficult – it’s only perceived as such because of the angling press, tackle manufacturers and “so called experts” like myself who try and create an aura around it….that you must have this tackle or this fly in order to be successful, or that’s the reason you failed……That’s utter rubbish –keep things Simple (within your own limitations) look at natures clues, think logically and fish the conditions.
Dispelling some myths and general tips….
I will try and explain how you can more fish more easily……
Long leaders……in most cases this is just anglers trying to prove that they are somehow better than you because they can cast a 25ft leader with 3 or 4 flies…..95% of the time they are just being stupid and on the wrong line or method – they are making it intentionally more difficult than it needs to be in order to look good…….try netting a fish on a 25ft leader and a multiple fly cast in a boat and you will struggle – if it’s ultra clear water or calm drop down to 2 or 3 flies instead and a 17 – 20ft leader.
Fluorocarbon is essential in my opinion. I use it on Stilwaters for everything except dries – this will catch you more fish, it sinks very quickly and is almost invisible in water – I will even use it in 5lb for dries on some occasions (far superior to standard mono)
Most expensive Flurocarbon is not always best ie Expensive Fluro (ie Frog Hair , Rio Fluroflex+ Fulling Mill Masterclass are all very thin for stated Breaking strain……they are all prone to wind knots and mistakes in casting as they are so supple. Friction burn can easily occur when knotting…..In short there is LESS ROOM for your angler error…everything must be perfect……for 50% of anglers a standard middle of the road Fluro is better for everyday fishing especially when fishing deep or in coloured water (slightly thicker/cheaper and more resilient X- Line a Carp Mainline in 8lb is brilliant)
However expensive fluro is very good in very calm, shallow clear water or when using very small flies – it definitely gives you an edge
Co-Polymer for dries (de greased).
Overline you rod by 1 line weight…….so #6 weight line on a #5 weight rod etc…….absolutely essential…casting is quicker, distance increased, faster, less line is needed to load the rod (the rod will actually load as 75% of anglers don’t generate line speed or get enough line in the air anyway)
Use Best Quality flies or hooks….( to say a pattern is only good when its used a few times and scruffy is utter shit….it was never tied correctly in the first place flies, Flies don’t last that long colours get washed out become bleached in the sun etc….) After 5 or 6 fish seriously consider replacing the fly (or use a hook sharpener) as hook will be blunter than when you started.
Hook Sharpener – Diamond hook sharpeners are essential ….although only a short term fix as once you touch up and sharpen a hook it usually rusts – any rust = BIN
Storage of flies – I’m amazed at how many anglers just put them back in boxes wet, or damp….. colours run or leech and ruin whole boxes (never mix bright patterns ie orange with black)
Snakes and fur based patterns retain water in the skin…….Hooks become rusty under the dressing which you CAN NOT see….then snap .
Snakes & Fur patterns need to be dried straight and untwisted…
Kitchen roll is very good at absorbing water and dirt cheap…lay them on Kitchen roll for 2 or 3 days before back in your box…. Or put your fly box on the cars “blower” on the journey home to dry them
Initial thoughts when arriving at any water – My Though Processes
Keep things simple – fish have similar habits all over the world, they respond to a food, temperature, structure and predators
Fish do not want to waste energy. They want to feel “safe” and have a plentiful food literally in front of them rather than to waste energy rising up and down in the water column……A very simple analogy – A fat kid in a sweet shop will eat everything at eye – waist level that he can grab…because he is fat and lazy he won’t bend down to the bottom shelf, or climb to the top shelf unless there’s something very special there or there are no other sweets left in the shop …….fish are exactly the same, getting your fly at the correct depth is best for success (more productive than the correct fly at the wrong depth)
HOWEVER you can pull up fish with a big dry or a Floating Fry if there is nothing else and conditions are right.
Location – is the most important factor – finding the correct area of the reservoir where the fish are holding in numbers – you cannot catch what simply isn’t there no matter how good an angler you are, Then Depth is the most important factor
Fly & Speed of retrieve – In my opinion (although important) are the least important factors you should consider, fish are opportunistic feeders they are not designed to feed on only 1 food source – hence when you spoon or gut them you will find chrominoid, shrimp, daphnia, cigarette butts, bait fish, damsels etc…)
All methods and all flies will work at certain times of the season so there is no definitive answer as to what is the best fly ? Nor will 1 fly work at all times. So for me fishing is about being consistent…..getting it right the majority of the time is the difference between an angler and a “good” angler.
Conditions and assessing the water
Always fish the conditions, and strongly consider any recent (over the last month) changes in water levels and how that may affect your fishing.
Pumping In – Run Off
This vast amount of “fresh” water coming in the reservoir will change the temperature by 2 or 3 degrees – it generally switches the fish off the feed or pushes them deep. This sudden influx of water can also lead to the reservoir “colouring up” with visibility often down to just 2 or 3 feet.
Low Visibility = fish slowly, any pattern moved at speed just won’t be seen
Use a larger pattern that has a good silhouette (black or dark based lures best) as they stand out.
Disturbance the fish can feel down their lateral line ie a booby. This fly simply ticks all the boxes when faced with difficult conditions in that it can be fished slowly, at depth, it has movement to induce the take, a good silhouette, and it causes disturbance. It’s not hard to see why it’s probably the most consistent fly on UK reservoirs between January and the end of April.
If the water is clear with a visibility of 10ft or more – No problems fish any method you desire, as long as you present your fly at the correct depth Bloodworms, Buzzers, Damsels allow for a more natural and often enjoyable approach that can pick out an overwintered fish or two.
However………..
If the reservoirs water level dropped significantly the season before then the established weed beds holding shrimp, corixa and fry die off, the banks dry up killing any insect life in the silt. Fish are pushed further out into the open water.
As a result the fish will continue to feed in the same water they were at the end of the previous season (which is now significantly further out from the bank due to the increased water level) Meaning and fish won’t hold in the margins as there is no food source to keep them there…and so often out of range of the bank angler.
Pick your water carefully if fishing from the bank, it should not have gone dry at the end of the previous season Always opt for the deeper water if possible.
Water Temperature (linked to dissolved oxygen content in water)
Will determine to a large extent the behaviour of the fish:
Depth they are holding,
What fly life hatches
When the fish feed.
Opening months of the season I will initially start my day by fishing deep and slow. The morning and low overnight temperatures usually see the fish in the bottom third of the water column. Unwilling to chase a fast moving fly and often not yet interested in feeding naturally. For this reason I prefer to induce the take, stimulate the fish through natural instinct or aggression into taking my fly. Mobile lures reign supreme and lures such as Snakes, Goldhead Buggers reign supreme.
Often as the day develops the temperature rises just a few degrees and between 11:00am and 14:00hrs it is often at it’s warmest. This slight change in conditions can be all that’s required in order to stimulate a hatch. Often these hatches are limited to just an hour or so and the adult fly will be much smaller ie size 14. The fish respond quickly and rise slightly in the water as they feed. However generally they will still remain in the bottom half of the water column rather than in the surface layers as such you should concentrate your efforts there – In essence as conditions change so should you, adapt in order to remain successful
Summer months as still-water bank anglers we are faced with different challenges especially once the sun comes up, the light is at it’s brightest, the sun is at its warmest. High water temperatures and low oxygen levels push the fish out of the shallows during the day and into deep water meaning many anglers struggle to adapt to the conditions. During the summertime it’s crucial you fish the depth the fish are holding at, and this will differ during different conditions and during different times of the day.
I break the day up into 3 parts –
Dawn 4:00 – 9:00am
Daytime 9:30am – 6:00pm
Dusk 6:30pm – 11:00pm
Dusk & Dawn
fantastic in June – August, but only during certain periods of the day…… Dawn & Dusk. At all other times it’s almost impossible because as a bank angler you simply can’t access the water the fish are often holding during the day. In bright hot conditions the only areas worthy your consideration during daytime sessions are often dam walls or jetties areas that provide access to deep cool water.
Summer = pin fry have hatched early June and that weed beds have become established providing a perfect haven for corixa, shrimps, pin-fry, buzzer, etc.., quality grown on fish soon find these food sources and it presents us with distinct opportunities to catch them
Corixa and Pin fry love shallow weedy water often the weed acts as a filter or barrier to the water in the main body of the reservoir. It is not affected by higher winds and so does not colour up as quickly making the water particularly clear in most instances.
Trout feeding in this shallow, calm, clear water are highly visible to the angler; you can often see them cruising just over the weed beds literally feet from the bank, confidently taking any food in their path. There is a temptation to rush to the water’s edge and frantically cast at every fish you see, especially as it’s often a larger than normal fish. Numerous casts, weighted flies, and an animated angler only do one thing; they spook the fish and simply push them out of reach. Patience and a stealthy approach are key to success.
Through experience I discovered that the “shrimp feeders” at Grafham cruise literally along the bank (especially at dusk and dawn) in the shallow
clear water you can see them swimming towards you literally 5 – 10 yards off the bank. However once they see the silhouette or frantic casting of an angler they veer out to around 20 yards, a safe distance in many cases. I found that by sitting down and remaining still, casting once every 30 seconds of so the fish will remain confident and will continue to swim along the bank so short infrequent casts are all that’s needed.
Exactly the same principles apply when targeting Corixa and Stickleback Feeders – you need to make very few casts, keep low and remain patient.
Trout will feed on shrimp, corixa and sticklebacks at the same time, fish are not programmed to eat just one food source – hence the reason when they are spooned they contain lots of different things, it’s not uncommon to find daddies, fry, corixa and snails all in the stomach of a trout – they are opportunist feeders. It also explains why anglers catch on a variety of different patterns when targeting the same fish.
Successful anglers have one thing in common, the depth their flies are fishing and good presentation
Your flies must remain high in water
Display the correct silhouette.
Fewer casts means fish are not spooked – this in turn requires a slow or static retrieve. Casts must be within your capabilities (you don’t want to be pushing for distance and hitting the water hard, or the cast not turning over..)
Be stealthy; let the fish come to your flies……it does require a change of attitude for most of us.
I prefer generic patterns with specific target points and triggers rather than an exact imitation I do not want my fly to be identical to the other 10000’s of naturals in the water
I want it to be very similar but able to stand out slightly and pull the trout to the fly. This is usually done by a fluorescent tag or head or a holographic rib. Ie Red holographic cruncher
My initial line of attack is always a 16ft leader of 8 lb Co-Polymer that is thoroughly degreased to allow it to gently cut through the surface, and also to take any shine off the leader that just glint in the rising/setting sun.
On the point I will fish a size 10 CDC and two small size 14 red holographic crunchers on the droppers. My first dropper is often just 3.5ft from the point fly.
Trout will have a very small angle of vision in such shallow water. In flat calms fish are often pulled to the bigger pattern and then take the smaller fly just subsurface.
This set up allows you to literally “park” your flies out there, keep low and simply wait for your target. Basically a short 10 – 20ft. cast is all that’s needed
When fishing you should make a short cast and scan the water, look for any rising fish and see if you can track them are you able to establish the speed
they are moving (how much water do they disturb and how quick is the rise – you can also establish the direction they are moving in)
you have to make a judgement quickly and decide where to place your cast and how much of a lead you give the fish. I prefer accurate casts with a lead of 3 – 4ft in most instances simply because the fish have such a small angle of vision – you will have to put the flies right on their nose to be successful.
Daytime 9:30am – 6:00pm
Once the sun has risen then to have consistent summer sport during the day you must opt for a boat or have access to very deep water such as a dam wall or pontoon.
To Summerise:
Induce fish into the take.
No matter what style of fishing your doing, Nymphs, Lures ,Wets or Dry’s you will catch significantly more fish if you induce the fish to take your flies.
SPEED UP
When pulling lures it’s far better to start off slow then speed up the retrieve at the end of your cast, the sudden change of speed is often enough to get the fish to take your fly. It’s a natural reaction the fish if it thinks its food is going to escape.
Change the angle of retrieve
Cast across the wind to cover more water and fish when in surface layers……cast straight down the wind for depth or to fish the flies slow – static……Demonstrate change of angle & speed to induce take ( hence when we lift off we get takes – change of angle and speed)
BRIGHT FLY
On the top dropper dull flies on middle and point. By putting the brightest fly on the top dropper (usually attracts more rainbows) it means the fish has to swim by the more natural patterns twice (on the way up and way down) doubling your chances of success.
VARY THE RETRIEVE
Long slow pulls, figure of eight, stripping all on the same cast- entice the fish. And will get you more takes. Nothing worse than the same continuous retrieve whatever it may be.
Even when fishing the roly-poly……don’t keep the same speed up…..vary it…fast….slow….fast…(look at it as legal spinning).and when you feel a take roly poly fast into the fish rather than trying to strike….
REMEMBER THE HANG
Always mark up for fly lines from your intermediate down to fast sinkers (mine have 1 marker at 14ft for a 10ft rod) this allows you to be in total control of your flies and line and to get those fish on the hang. This way you don’t need to think about how much line you have out and where your rod tip is, You just have to concentrate on the fish.
THE HANG – ( it’s Traditionally a pause at the end of your retrieve in which you can get the following fish to take)
Essential for both LURES AND NYMPHS
For Lures : – You can’t see under the water…..but you must imagine what your flies are doing and there is a fish following them on every cast……..
When the line marker hits your tip ring get ready….this is the most important part of the cast…(Do Not just hang the fly motionless in the water, lift off and recast as the “traditional hang” the fish will often swim round the fly and then off )
You must induce the take (get the fish to take the fly’s)…so bounce the flies a little (dibble them)
You will see any take before you feel it (often you don’t feel it)…if in doubt Strike……
If you feel any resistance strike (HARD) Use the top dropper as a float…..if you see your top dropper go sideways, dip or disappear STRIKE HARD….(do not just lift into the fish or you will loose it…the rod will absorb the take and you won’t set the hook…it’ll be on for 3-4 secs then off)
Also watch your leader line…..if it suddenly straightens, moves etc, STRIKE..
Basically Change up the retrieve…and be ready for a take……if you can keep the line moving (slowly) then everything should be tight and in direct contact so you will feel or see the takes….
** if you hit it hard you may miss the fish with the actual fly but foul hook it – remember all fish count in a match – there is NO such thing as a foul hooked fish anyone can catch a fish in the mouth but in the guts takes real skill ** ( on the hang expect approximately a 50% catch rate )
Windy Conditions…When the line is lifted up the wind can catch the line putting a bow in the leader and making takes difficult to notice/feel…..in these cases keep the rod tip low………when the line marker hits the tip ring, figure of 8 as Fast as possible (this will keep you in direct contact with the flies)…one little dibble and a smooth lift…..any resistance STRIKE HARD…
For Nymphs – You must again induce the take (get the fish to take the fly)…so lower your rod back 3 – 4 “ slowly ( The drop back) then hold perfectly still for 2 – 3 seconds before a very slow lift and recast all the while looking for any movement of the line or feeling any resistance…..If so strike Hard….
Indicator Fishing
Brightest Nymph on the top dropper i.e. Pearl rib/back or Fluorescent red head. This will attract and pull the fish to you flies (also catches the sun better), again doubling your chances as they must swim by the other natural flies on your cast twice.
When you’ve left the indicator for say 30 seconds so the flies are vertical, figure of 8 about 2-3ft of line, then stop, this does 2 things first it raises all of the flies in the water column just as the natural buzzer does, also the indicator causes a big disturbance on the surface, this again attracts the trout to your flies, this slight movement can make all the difference
Washing Line
When fishing the washing line with a booby on the point put the first nymph close (to the booby) 2.5 – 3ft – booby attracts the fish and the nymph takes them.
The same method can be used for DRY’S put a booby on the top dropper and 2 dry’s behind it. A sharp pull makes the booby pop and draws the fish to your flies then a slow figure of 8 or gently pulls see’s the fish take the dry’s ( usually use a hopper) very effective on UK reservoirs
On wild fish (Scottish lochs) a muddler often works better than a booby on the top dropper and the retrieve should be quick 12 – 18” pulls.
CAST ACROSS
The “Fan cast” the water-you will not only cover more fish as they move upwind but you will also present your flies at a slightly different angle to most anglers again it can make all the difference.
Change the angle of retrieve.
For example if fishing on a boat and you cast straight down the wind the flies will fish deeper…basically because you can fish them static or ultra slow…But if you cast at a 85-90 degree angle to the boat as the boat drifts the flies will be pulled around the arc (just like a tube) this will allow your flies to fish higher in the water and across the wind…deadly for nymphs and lures…..
This can be exaggerated in the boat, and the angle of retrieved changed by the position of the drogue on the boat……you can use the boat crabbing to your advantage and actually work the flies….
Crabbing / Crab + the boat drifts sideways across the wind rather than straight downwind
Also the drogue (underwater parachute) can be used to make the boat crab along a bank…rather than drifting straight into it…if the fish are holding on the ledge about 20 yards out then it will give you more time on the fish..
Fish will become accustom to flies being retrieved in the same way at the same angle and will just follow or tap……This is often unnatural especially when fishing nymphs…(Chrominoids do not go against the still water current or wind) For example if every angler had the wind on their back and is casting straight down wind the nymphs are being retrieved into the wind.. again this is never more noticeable as when you are fishing dams..and you get an undertow…..if possible cast into the wind so your flies go with the flow and look natural….for stockies it rarely makes any difference but for resident or silvered up fish it’s essential.
FRY FEEDING
Fry feeding (baitfish) can be either simple with the trout taking just about anything of the right size or shape or nearly impossible. Fish shoal together for protection if you put your fly in the middle of the shoal it’s just one in 0000’s I prefer to get my fly slightly away from the main shoal of baitfish i.e. above or below it allows the fish to easily pick out your pattern.
The most effective method is to fish a Hummungus booby or a snake on a fast sinker and slowly figure of 8 it back on about an 8-10ft leader. You can make the fly almost dance and give the impression of a wounded fish that has been unable to get back in the main shoal. Your fly is no longer 1 in 0000’s but is still in the right area and can easily be singled out by the fish and taken. The size of the Fly must be the size of the baitfish if you want to maximise your catch.
However the fish will soon wise up…especially when an area has been fished hard for a time…ie peninsular at Rutland…or harbour at Grafham…..the fish will still be there and feeding….but they will be difficult..probably hooked and lost etc….
Essential to match the size of the lure to the size of the bait fish…….(recently at Rutland floating fry have been the best method (basically because the fish have been conditioned to look up- feeding on corixa and pin fry around the weedbeds…
The fish were pre-occupied with Sticklebacks so floating fry 1 “ long worked best…now they have switched onto the larger roach fry…so want a pattern 2” long
This gives you a couple of options to catch those more wary fish……I love a big suspender minkie (or floating fry) tied on a 8ft… 12lb leader..then a small
minkie or glass fry (same as a floating fry but it sinks) left to sit 3 ft under the large fly…. (very much like fishing the bung)
The fish will be pulled up to the large fly and will take the smaller sinking fly suspended below…..often the trout slash at the large fly wanting to sink it before actually taking it….(for this reason you will get foul hooked fish)…you should never instanatly strike when you see the swirl…instead just figure of 8 and wait until it goes tight before striking….this way you know the trout has actually taken the fly.
Cast and move
Cast out; let your flies settle (usually lures) then move 4 steps left or right and roly-poly them back in. This allows you to fish the curve just as you can on the rudder (induces the take with a change of direction and speed as it goes round the bend)and often puts fish in your bag when times are hard, it also allows you to cover much more water.
Boats catch more fish most of the time simply because they drift and cover more water…..the most important time on the bank is the first 10 casts….as the fish will not have seen your flies…they will be guillable…..Same as the 3rd or 4th drifts through on a boat are not as productive (not in the summer months when the fish are out in the cooler deeper water on daphnia or start of the season when the banks are lined with fresh stockies)
KNOCK THEM OFF BALANCE
If fish are showing in the surface and you can’t get a touch on nymphs/drys knock them off balance, fish an orange booby and a sparkler booby spaced about 8ft apart on a 16ft leader on a DI-3 or DI-5. Cast in front of the fish then pop the boobies and keep pulling and wait for everything to go solid. The fish feel the disturbance down their lateral line and see it visually popping though the surface; the fast sinker pulls the flies down at a sharp angle again inducing them into taking your fly.
IN COLOURED WATER
Use flies that will stand out i.e. Black based usually I also opt for boobies as they create a huge disturbance in the water allowing the fish to feel the disturbance down their lateral line as well as see the fly. It’s always best to fish slowly.
Also it often pays to fish high in the water…(with boobies or dries) basically because the fly stands out against the lighter sky….it’s sillouetted and makes it easy for the trout to see.
Also use larger patters – stand out better
READ THE WATER
Look for points that channel the food across them, look at the gradient of the bank if it’s a natural lake it should give you an idea of the depth of water you’ll be fishing in. Structures i.e. boat harbour streams coming into the reservoir, Draw off Towers/Pipework all will hold fish.
Shallow water with weed beds that drop off into deeper water the best fish holding areas I know, fish along the weed beds
TEMPERATURE
Determines what depth the fish will be holding at, how fast they will want to move and what fly life will be hatching. Fish are cold blooded they need warmth to become active, They will not chase a fly pulled quickly if there has been a hard frost, they will also tend to be in the deeper water so a booby on a fast sinker tends to be the best method again fished slowly.
On Autumn/Winter days I always start off fishing deep and as the day goes on the fish move higher in the water so change tactics accordingly. Occasionally you will get a hatch even in the depths of winter these usually tend to be small black buzzers (about size 14/16) they only occur during the warmest time of the day 11:00am – 1:00pm and are often very limited, make the most of them or you will miss out.
CHANGE TACTICS
As the temperature changes so should you, i.e. just because you caught on a booby deep first thing in the morning don’t stick on it if takes dry up, adapt to the conditions.
DEPTH OF FLIES
Many anglers get blinkered and believe that the Indicator is always the most effective way to fish nymphs, yes it can be very effective but when the fish are in the top 4 ft of water you have 2 flies out of the feeding zone. In these instances you should fish the washing line, booby on the point and 2 or 3 flies on the droppers usually size 12 so they don’t get pulled too deep. I also tend to use copolymer as a leader material, as even a 20ft leader of Fluorocarbon can drag the flies down too quickly.
PRESENTATION
It can be very important, especially in clear water or on wild or resident fish. In these cases it is better to present 1 fly correctly than 2 or 3 badly. However in coloured water or high winds it is not essential. I keep my leaders simpler 6-8lb for Nymphs, 8-10lb for Lures and 6 lb copolymer for dries. Always of a clear type.
If you have to fish a single fly on a short leader better to use a clear intermediate or clear midge tip less prone to scare the fish.
If the fish have received a lot of angling pressure or boats over them they will also go deeper. Which can confuse especially if you caught on practice day
on a intermediate line, match day you may have to use a Di-5 as the number of boats will put them deeper.
Fish also get wise to patterns such as the BLOB they will only follow and not take, now almost everyone has an orange blob and they shy away from it, Variants can work but it is better to revert to nymphs, with orange tags or heads. Then after they become wary of these standard drab/natural nymphs.
DO THE SIMPLE THINGS
There are so many variables in fishing that you can’t control, the weather, the type of hatches, depth of the fish etc. make sure that all of the things that you can control are controlled.
For example: Always whip finish your braided loop to your fly line, so it is a smooth join. Many fish are lost when the plastic sleeving jolts on the rod rings, or gets stuck when the fish runs.
Check your tip ring once a season a DI-7 line can almost wear through and cause a sharp edge that can ruin your fly-line or your leader. I had to replace 4 Loomis rods in a season due to the wear on the tip ring.
Every time you miss a take or loose a fish check your fly, You’ll be surprised how often you can blunt a hook on a boat, rock, dam wall etc.
When fishing nymphs in a cross wind and you’re just letting them swing round you often have a large bow in your fly line, rather than to feel for takes watch the tip of your line for movement, and on the strike don’t strike upwards strike to the side so you pull through the curve– it keeps you in direct contact and sets the hook faster. Much easier to do when bank fishing (same applies when fishing boobies don’t strike through the water- strike to the side)
If You have a stiff rod and want to fish light leaders and small flies lift the rod up from the water 24 – 36 inches it’ll give you some cushioning and stop you getting broken on the take
FISHING DIFFERENT WATERS
Fish tend have the same habits all over the world and they respond to temperature and structure and predators. They eat the same types of flies Rainbows and Browns don’t differ much in there feeding habits.
However there are huge differences when you fish waters at altitude (Welsh mountains etc..) these waters don’t have as much natural fly life in them the fish rely largely on terrestrial flies being blown onto the water for food, consequently the fish are always “looking up” and respond very well to dries. Black hoppers or CDC patterns are particularly effective or black nymphs fished on the washing line
A few of my favourite & most consistent patterns .
Profile Booby Olive or Black
Hook: B175 size 10 or 12
Tail: 3/4 inch Black Marabou (or Olive Marabou)
Body: Black Seals fur or Olive Seals Fur Mix
Rib – Pearl UTC tinsel
Wing: 2 or 3 strands of Silver Flashabou from behind eyes
Legs: 6 Pheasant tail knotted
Eyes: Yellow Foam 4mm
Olive Damsel Bugger
Hook: B175 size 10 or 12
Tail 1.5 inch Olive Marabou
Rib Silver or Gold Wire
Body Olive FNF Straggle Fritz
Hackle (through body) Grizzle dyed Yellow or Burnt Orange
Eyes (3mm Bead Chain Fluro Chartreuse) or 3mm Chartreuse Bead
Nemo Cruncher
Hook B175 size 10 or 12
Body Pheasant tail
Rib – Fine Holo tinsel (red or green)
Thorax – Peacock herl or hares ear fur
Hackle: Greenwells Hen
Tail: Greenwells Hen
Head: Fine Holo Tinsel (red or green) – superglued
Black Chrominoid/Buzzer
Hook B175 Size 10 or 12
Black 140 UTC thread
Body: Stripped Peacock Quill (fluro Yellow)
Checks: Sunburst Biots
4 coats of varnish
Silver/gold/black 2.5mm tungsten bead head (Optional)
Blobs & Boobies
Blobs, Fabs ( Foam Arse Blob) and Blob Boobies are always best tied on a Kamasan B130 hook (size 8 or 10) as they have a larger gape (for the fritz) are forged so stronger
Standard boobies – straggle boobies tied on a B175 size 10 or 12 as slimmer , yet still strong
Fritz must be absolute top quality FNF or Flybox is my preference…everything else is not as bright, not as soft so less movement and often bulked out with filaments so the hook gape is obscured…..so less hook ups.
Profile Booby is very effective when used on a midge tip or slow intermediate as the point fly, can be taken by fussy fish as a dry (taken for a beetle, ant or heather fly) or when nymphed back when the line pulls the fly under. This allows 2 methods to be fished with the same fly’s I tend to use wet hoppers on the droppers particularly good on high altitude waters were a lot of terrestrials are blown onto the water and the fish predominantly feed in the surface layers
Current & Future Trends 2020 – 2025+
The last 5 years have seen distinct changes in the most productive methods and how we fish. This is due to a number of factors.
Clearer Water (Zebra/Quagga mussels filter sediment)
Considerably less stock (Rutland stocked 120,000 in 2001 with the season ending November 31st – they now stock 70,000 with the season ending January 31st)
More Predators – Cormorants etc..
More C & R by Fly anglers
Pressure from other angling disciplines (Ie Predator fishing)
As a result fish have become significantly more “wised up” and conditioned…… they often do not want large lures pulled fast….
For this reason Natural Methods fished ultra slow or static have been a revelation…. Ie Dries, Neutral density patterns the “Washing Line and Indicator” Natural methods have easily been the most consistent method on all Midlands Reservoirs
The Killer Shrimp has caused the biggest change in methods – Rutland/Grafham/Pitsford/Draycote and Beyond
You now need to wade out up to your knees and angle your cast along the bank for best results
Rough well picked out Hare’s Ears, Quill Crunchers fished on a Floater or Midge Tip often washing line style with a small Fab or Foam Daddy are now most productive for over half the season.
Small Egg flies fished under the indicator won us the Commonwealth Championship on Rutland/Grafham and Elinor – basically a blob made out of a material called “Eggstasy” it bulks out and goes very soft, and slushy in the water. These small patterns catch and moves on the water currents quite naturally (although a totally unnatural looking pattern) Also as it’s so soft the fish seem to reject it much less when taking it……For me an essential pattern in the box especially on pressured fish (Also small Eggstacy boobies)
As the fly is fished static do not tie these patterns too large, A size 12 Heavyweight Grub hook is best with just 3 or 4 turns of Eggstacy with a 1mm gap when tying – “”smaller” is easier for fish to suck in, and moves more on underwater currents etc….
| Sink Rate of Lines – Depth Control LINE | Sink Rate Per Second | Seconds Per 5 Feet | Seconds Per 10 Feet | Seconds Per 15 Feet | Seconds Per 20 Feet | Seconds Per 30 Feet |
| Slow int. | 0.8 | 75 | 150 | N/A | N/A | N/A |
| Mid int. | 1.25 | 48 | 96 | N/A | N/A | N/A |
| Fast int | 1.5 | 40 | 80 | N/A | N/A | N/A |
| DI – 3 | 3 | 20 | 40 | 60 | N/A | N/A |
| DI – 5 | 5 | 12 | 24 | 36 | 48 | N/A |
| DI – 7 | 7 | 8.5 | 17 | 25.5 | 34 | 51 |
| DI – 8 Booby Basher | 8 | 7.5 | 15 | 22.5 | 30 | 45 |
An Insight into – “Fishing the Weedbeds”
Summer can be a difficult month for all still-water anglers, especially bank anglers. The higher water temperatures in May, June, July and August means that there has been rapid weed growth in the shallower areas of our reservoirs. Water that early season was 8 -12ft deep is now just 3 or 4 ft deep.
Many anglers simply avoid these areas of the reservoir, based on the premise that, if they can’t see fish then there are obviously none there.
From experience I can assure you this isn’t always the case, and you should never discount the shallows, it provides some of the best and most exciting sport you are likely to encounter.
Established weed beds provide the perfect haven for corixa, shrimps and pin fry. They also provide shade and cover for the fish. I also feel that grown on, resident fish do not “switch off” like recently introduced stock fish, they are
more accustomed to the higher and fluctuations of water temperatures in the reservoir and will feed naturally in and around the weed beds presenting the angler with the perfect opportunity to catch them
I accept they are challenging, but they are also larger grown-on, resident fish worthy of the extra effort.
The weed often acts as a filter or barrier to the water in the main body of the reservoir. These areas are not affected by high winds and so don’t colour up as quickly making the water particularly clear in most instances – again this provides another challenge for the angler.
We all acknowledge that shallow clear water, numerous casts and weighted flies will only do one thing; it spooks the fish, and it’s impossible to catch a frightened fish. Patience and a logical stealthy approach are key components to success.
Quite often the weed beds will have their own unique features, for example deep holes or channels these can appear irrelevant, as they are no more than just 4 or 5ft wide. These areas are the weed equivalent of “wind lanes” and should never be overlooked.
Before you start fishing it’s important to look closely at the whole area and the channels and pockets in the weed. At first glance it will look like one big carpet of green weed. But it isn’t, there is often a larger main channel followed by smaller side channels that interlink. Trout use these channels to search the weed beds for food. The majority of fish usually enter the weed bed system via a main channel – Obviously this is always your starting point as it will allow you to present your flies to the highest number of fish as they all pass this point twice, on entry and exit.
However the chances are that after catching just a single fish the ensuing fight will have disturbed the water significantly. You will either have to be extremely patient and wait for 30 to 45 minutes for the water to settle or find another area to fish….I usually opt to move to another area.
I again like to follow the path of the channels, try and avoid dead ends, if you hook a fish it will go through the weed in it’s attempt to escape and this usually means breakages. Instead try and fish channels where there is a clear exit path into the main reservoir.
If you stop and simply watch you will often find that trout patrol the weedbeds in pairs. I’ve noticed fish will often follow a set route through the weed, passing the same position perhaps every 5 minutes or so. In the shallows of Rutlands North Arm I have witnessed a large brown of 7 – 8lb use the same path through the weed over and over again. This allows the thinking angler to set the perfect trap, you know the route the fish will take, so you can stack the odds in your favour. Rather than casting at the fish as and when you see it ( and potentially spooking it) cast a minute or so before you expect the fish to make it’s next pass, try and physically keep your fly line on the weed with just your leader and fly directly in it’s path. There will be no silhouette from your fly line, no splash from the fly or fly-line hitting the water – your presentation will be perfect. When the fish is literally just a foot away from your fly make a single short sharp 4 – 6 pull, your fly will move and the fish will react, usually taking the fly. Watch the fish turn on your fly and then strike, in many instances you won’t feel the take at all…. a suspender minkie is virtually
unbeatable if you intend to induce the take in this way, and it has the added advantage of being tied on a heavy wire hook so shouldn’t bend out under the sustained pressure of a long hard fight. The mink tail also imparts a little movement when twitched which can induce the take. Also being buoyant it can be cast out and left to just “Sit There” while you wait for the patrolling fish to make it’s next pass. If the fish refuses the fly it’s unlikely to be spooked so you can simply adopt a different method – a single dry perhaps ?
Another trick I’ve learned is that when fishing from a boat gently motor to the edge of the weed bed and cut the engine 20ft away ( but keep the engine in gear so the propeller can be lifted up as you reach the weedbed) allow the momentum -movement of the boat to push you deep into the weed. You are now effectively shipwrecked on the weed. Often there is no need to even use the anchor as the weed will hold you in position. You can fine tune your position and manoeuvre the boat with the oars. In effect you have created the perfect hide, an ambush opportunity and can fish literally over the blanket of weed into the drop off or channel, with both you and the boat hidden from the fish’s view.
The approach is advantageous in that you don’t have to repeatedly start and stop the engine disturbing the shallow water by drifting through it, or by dropping and raising an anchor or drogue.
Trout feed on multiple foods at the same time, fish are not programmed to eat just 1 food source – hence the reason when they are spooned they contain lots of different insects, it’s not uncommon to find daddies, fry, corixa and snails all in the stomach of trout feeding in the shallows – they are opportunist feeders snacking over the weedbed buffett.
The depth your flies are fishing is key to success – you should be fishing in the top 2 or 3ft of the water often less !
Your flies must display the correct silhouette or profile, and remember that any droppers on the cast can easily get caught in weed when a hooked fish runs causing
breakages. I mostly only fish 2 flies over weed beds to limit the chances of a fish breaking me when running through the weed.
There are really only 3 methods that you should consider and all are extremely are simple.
My initial line of attack is always a “washing line” style set up with a 13ft leader of 8lb Co-Polymer (degreased) and a floating fry, Suspender Minkie or Popper Hopper on the point and a size 12 or 14 red holo diawl bach on the dropper. (just 3ft from the point fly) remember that any fish will have a very small angle of vision in such shallow water.
Make a cast, one pull to straighten the line and get you in direct contact, then just fish ultra slow or static.
Fish are often pulled to the larger silhouette of the Point Fly and ultimately take the diawl bach just subsurface.
In Flat calms I prefer fishing a suspender minkie on the point, basically because the mink tail imparts a small amount of movement into the pattern. It’s often all that’s needed to induce the take and turn swirls into positive
takes. A suspender Minkie can also be given a sharp strip to create a “pop” again this disturbance can attract the fish and pull them to your cast.
If you find that the fish are reacting to the disturbance caused by the suspender minkie, then you can take this a stage further by fishing a single minkie booby on a floating line. I would use a 13ft leader of 8lb fluorocarbon and a size 8 Minkie booby with 6 or 7mm eyes (the fly being approximately 2” long and a fry imitation). This set up can be fished over water just a foot deep. You can begin by “popping” the booby with 4 or 5 short sharp 6 to 12” pulls that causes the fly to “Pop” and will draw any fish in – it’s like sounding the dinner bell, then retrieve the fly with a medium paced figure of 8. The fly will wake across the surface and it’s often irresistible. Takes are explosive as trout come from nowhere and home in on your fly often bow waving before the take almost pulls the rod out of your hand.
If conditions are favourable, then you always have the option to fish dries “Dries” especially for Corixa and Snail and Shrimp feeders, again I tend to keep things simple with a 14ft leader of 8lb degreased co-polymer and a Hare’s Ear Cdc on the point, and a size 12 or 14 orange or red hopper on the dropper (6ft from the point)
You can literally “park” your flies out there, and simply wait for the fish to find them, if you are fishing over one of the channels or holes in the weed it’s only a matter of time. When using dries losses must be expected, you simply cannot bully the fish excessively on light wire hooks
For this reason even before a fish is even hooked it’s important to have a plan of what you are going to do when you do hook one – these are not stock fish, but well mended resident or overwintered fish a 3lb fish is easily capable of snapping an 8lb leader – you must assess the water – it’s often a case of pile on the pressure and side strain, try and turn them out into the clear open water.
The runs will be spectacular, runs of 20 – 30 yards are an everyday occurrence and your drag must be set correctly you do not want the reel to overrun and tangle or the drag to be too stiff so the hook simply pulls out or leader snaps, it’s a very fine balance and you won’t get many second chances. Remember any fish hooked in shallow water’s first instinct is to run to safety – this equates to deep water some distance away or a weed bed.
Always keep your rod high and as much fly line off the water as possible this causes drag and resistance and can easily pull the small hooks out or straighten them watch your fly -line and backing so they don’t tangle around any weed, or round your feet a fit 3 lb rainbow can take a full line in 4 or 5 seconds so you literally have no time to think about what’s happening.
You must accept that you will lose at least 1 in every 3 fish hooked – for me it makes the ones caught that little bit more special.
Midlands Reservoirs – In seasons
I’ve fished both Rutland & Grafham for over 30 years and in the last 10 years fished them both on average at least once a week, every week
I was and still am addicted to fishing. At the height of the summer (low water levels) I would walk around the reservoirs noting all the drop offs and features of the reservoir that would hold fish…I also fished with an echo sounder for 3 seasons, leaning about the drop offs when fishing from a boat….I could then use this information in matches or next season when bank fishing.
Fishing is simple, it’s just us as anglers that believe it to be difficult and make it difficult. Every year the same area’s hold and produce fish at different times of the year on the same methods.
I’ve broken down both Rutland & Grafham and can almost tell you where to fish on what and at what time in the year. Again our reservoirs are all basically the same; fish respond to the same tactics and patterns and I don’t really change unless I fish Irish, Scottish or Welsh waters…….the flies and tactics will work everywhere and at the same time of the season.
It might take away some of the enjoyment for you – working out the water……but simply look at it as a push in the right direction……you’ve still got to catch the fish..
Rutland Water
Early Season – Opening Day – Mid April
Nothing difficult is needed to catch consistently from the start of the season. The fish will hold in a band from 10 yards out to 70 yards out, so from bank or boat you should aim to be in this band of water -fishing in the bottom 1/3rd of water.. medium and fast sinking lines only (or floaters with heavily weighted lures)
Water temperatures will be cold – so it’s a case of fishing deep and slow with lures if you want to maximise your sport…..what ever you say or think this is by far the most consistent method
Flies should be:-
Black & Green Boobies
Cat’s Whisker Boobies
Black & Green Goldheads
Cat’s Whiskers
Goldhead Damsels
Hummungus
Nothing else is needed……you would be better to move after 30mins and try another spot than continue with other patterns…….or at different depths.
East Creek – Point in front of bushes is shallow –fish just to the left and cast towards sailing club for a deep hole that holds overwintered fish and stockies (3 times in the last 7 years the biggest fish of opening day has been caught here)
Cripple Creek – Point – cast towards lodge for deeper water (towards sailing club is shallow) The creek itself is also a good depth This is an area that always holds stock fish at this time of year.
Lodge Frontage (stone arms) The deepest water accessible for the bank angler 25ft (and without the need to wade. Fishing off the ends of the arms means you’ll be fishing in water that is too deep and cold…..at this time of year there are only 2 consistent spots (the first 2 as you come through the gate) this is shallower water and allows you to fish the ledge between deep and shallow. A lot of fish hold here both stockies and over wintered fish
On the left arm you should cast towards the sailing club…..on the right arm you should cast towards Normanton church.
Normanton Church Bay – Excellent early season bank/boat spot – guaranteed to hold fish at this time of year.
3 Trees (now 2 Trees) to Blue pipes – another excellent early season spot gives the bank angler access to a decent depth of water with a modest cast.
Stockie Bay – Sykes Lane for me this is over rated as an early season bank spot; although the boat fishing at Sykes lane can be exceptional if the wind has pushed the fish in.
Whitwell creek – In my opinion The PLACE TO BE opening week. It simply has everything, deep water, weed beds, stockfish and plenty of overwintered fish. Depending upon the wind you can fish either side.
However my preferences are :-
1 – In front of the seat by the wire fence at the mouth of the creek.
2 – Bottom of the creek just past the trees/bushes where the small stream comes in.
Personally I wouldn’t bother to fish the North Arm early season……It’s too deep and too inconsistent. But if you really want to get away from the crowds then the following area’s are the best:-
1 – Road End – no walking required literally park and walk 20 yards and start fishing – it always holds fish early season although usually stockies
2 – Transformer – Again an area that I dislike early season as the fish do not hold here for long;untill the weed beds become established in May/June But worth 20mins as you pass by as again no walking is required.
3 – Carrot creek/ Barnhill Creek – Deep water close to the bank and an excellent holding area for overwintered fish, although not in numbers.
Heading up the South Arm and again there are a number of area’s worth fishing from both bank and boat.
Yellowstone Point and Bay……Right on the corner there is a small fence that comes into the water – The bank hotspot especially if you cast towards NZ point as your flies will be right in a hole and a fish holding area. For boats the bay itself and the point by Z buoy are very consistent. Again a mixture of stock fish and overwintered fish are caught here.
Old Hall Flats – one of my favourite spots is right on the concrete inlet….this area is hardly ever fished yet always holds a good number of fish. Consistent over the last 5 years and very under rated.
Old Hall Point – Right on the point will give you access to deep water and is one of the best fish holding area’s on Rutland I like to cast towards Manton as it seems to produce best with the wind coming over your shoulder…..rather than into you.
Lots of good fish are caught all year from this area, and it’s undoubtedly one of the best bank spots on Rutland.
I tend not to bother with the bottom of the South Arm from bank or boat until things have warmed up a bit (mid May) there not enough good area’s at this time of year, personally I believe its far better to fish where there are 3 or 4 area’s in close proximity….this way you don’t waste any time if one doesn’t produce.
New Zealand point – Feast or famine……you’ll either bag up almost instantly; or it will be a struggle. Never produced anything but stock fish for me at anytime of year, but again very popular…personally I’d avoid it.
Sailing Club Bay – Depending on the wind direction and the colour of the water (you want it clear) this would be my other hotspot. Guaranteed to produce early season from bank or boat and it offers protection from the strong winds. Even better is that you never know what you may catch…….stockie or overwintered fish….both feature heavily in bags.. Personally I prefer up from the corner by the sailors jetty – just 30m past the bushes and fence. Or half way up the bank (towards the point)
Mid Season Mid April – End Of June
Nature’s turned on a switch….everything seems to be coming alive as the temperatures are rising; we’ve weed starting to appear, buzzers hatching in increasing numbers and plenty of Shrimp about. The fish are hungry and on the feed…there also on the move looking for food…..it’s the best time of the year to catch overwintered fish in my opinion….on a variety of methods !
Early season methods will still work well; however you really shouldn’t miss this opportunity to catch on the nymphs as you will be able to tempt a higher proportion of resident fish on this method.
Flies should be:-
Traffic Light or Stripped Quill Buzzers (black)
Red Holographic diawl bach
Crunchers
Hares Ears
Small FAB, Booby or Foam Daddy for the washing Line
Fished on a Floater or Midge Tip – methods as discussed
The South Arm
A lot shallower than the North Arm with silt and weed beds; making it ideal for buzzers to hatch in abundance.
Pretty much all of the South Arm will fish well but there are definite hotspots; and it has changed slightly with the new wall being built.
Manton – Directly in front of the stone Visitors Centre about 30 – 50 yards out this will put you in about 16ft of water and the ideal depth to fish nymphs.
Stone Wall – about 20 yards of the wall is a definite hot spot……just the right depth of water and a natural feature for the fish….produced well every time the water cleared last year (due to digging work)
Mouth of Manton – 20 yards past the point there is a deep hole again a natural holding area for big fish (2 doubles were caught here in 2 days by Curley and Barry Thompson a couple of years ago). I had 3 x 25+ lb bags from here just last year all on the nymphs.
Browns Island – Again the 50yards around the Browns Island is always the most productive; just on the drop off. Again a Haven for larger fish.
Lax Hill & Cattle Trough – Lax Hill was supposedly out of bounds due to the work on the new pipeline, it did however hold significant numbers of fish last year, many in the 3-4lb class,
Hide Away Bay and the Bunds Wall – Probably the best nymph water on Rutland…… double figure fish are caught and lost here each year at this time, not to mention those 5 lb+…big bags are almost guaranteed in clear water.
My favourite spots are:-
1 – left hand side (opposite the bird hide) about 30 yards off the bank – casting back at the bird hide……The holding place !!!
2 – Bottom of the bunds wall about 60 yards out, drifting where the fence comes in by the trees.
Old Hall and Yellowstone (same area’s as mentioned before will now produce on the nymphs)
North Arm
Last year the nymphs fishing in area’s was spectacular !
Bunds Walls – There are now 2 walls – the new wall that is visible and 50m directly in front of it the old bunds wall which is submerged……last year the amount of big fish in this swimming pool area was amazing. They were gorging themselves on buzzers from May – July…fish of upto 10lb 13oz were caught….along with some exceptional bags…Lee Henfrey has 4 consecutive bags over 30lb
The best spot is at anchor on the right hand side on the bay……15m off a small red marker buoy. This will allow you to fish the hole (max 14ft deep) and simply clean up if the fish are there…But there are underwater obstructions…anchor chains…weed etc…..use fluro 10lb+ as an absolute minimum or you’ll be smashed.
Transformer – Armley Wood – again good nymph water but stick to long drifts 40m out parallel with the bank for best results….aim for 15-20ft depth…. Just where you loose sight of the bottom.
Fishing further out will mean your in the deep water; which will be too cold for buzzers to be hatching.
The best holding spot is the 20m just after Armley Wood (by the fence – transformer side) there is a deep hole here
Dickinsons – At the bottom of the bay there is a bird hide and a line of orange/red marker buoys….drift along this line for best results
Main Basin – Again the common factor when fishing nymphs is getting the depth right…if there deep it’s straight lining on a midge tip….if not it’s usually the bung.
From the White sign at the mouth of Whitwell right up to Sykes lane is excellent shrimp water around 20 – 50 yards from the bank.
Fantasy Island – Lodge – East Creek Again an area that will produce all the way along the bank if the wind will keep you parallel to it. so aim to drift close to the bank……approx 20 – 50 yards out
Summer Months July – September
The hardest part of the season, and unless you’re a season ticket holder fishing at first and last light then don’t even consider it from the bank; it’s a waste of time !!
Flies should be:-
Small Sparkler boobies (size 12 or 14)
Cormorants
Cat’s Whiskers
Hummungus
Crunchers
Stripped Quill Buzzers
Foam Daddies
The best area is undoubtedly the main basin or in front of the lodge; it gives the boat angler access to deep cool water; especially if you fish near the boils. Best methods will range from nymphs on the midge tip to blobs pulled. It really is a difficult time of the year to predict as we are so reliant upon the weather and conditions.
Best to read reports and try and get upto date info at this time of year….I only ever fish the morning or afternoon session because the daytime is the graveyard shift in fishing terms
Back End – October – December
Again your chance to catch something really special in the season as the fish are desperate to pack on weight for the winter, they’ll be feeding on either Shrimps,fry or corixa. Floaters or intermediate lines for most patterns ..or Medium sinkers for the boobies
Flies should be:-
Hummungus (black & sliver or white & silver)
Minkies (grey, white, light brown)
Suspender Minkies
Floating Fry
Small red hoppers (size 12)
Hares ears
Foam Daddies
Stripped Quill Crunchers
An ultra slow retrieve always picks out the better quality fish, rather than a medium or fast paced…..the resident fish have seen it all and don’t want to waste energy chasing food when it can be easily picked off.
The best area’s are undoubtedly the following:-
Sailing Club Bay – Packed with features, pontoons, weed beds, moorings and fry
Manton – (becomes out of bounds from Nov 15th) all of the bay will produce……
Harbour and stone arms –The Harbour is always a good area, at this time of year it holds vast numbers of fry which in turn attract the fry feeders. My largest Rutland Brown of 11lb came from here a few seasons ago. I find it best to simply fan cast the water searching for fry feeders. Often at this time of the year there are long periods of inactivity followed by 2 or 3 quick fish…as the fish move in and out of the harbour to feed on the fry
Blue pipes – It’s a gravel bottom here; and the brownies love it especially as it’s coming into spawning season. Always worth a few casts….last season I had 2 x 5lb Brownies here in ½ hour.
Fantasy island – It can get quite weedy here because it’s shallow (the 50m from the stones to the first trees), so fish on the stone point (part of the dam) and cast back towards Sykes lane. This will allow you to fish in deep water. There is also a concrete draw off about 20 yards out (submerged) The water level here drops from 15ft to 25ft and always attracts fry big fish at this time of year.
Whitwell and Ernie’s point. – What more can I say; this area simply produces fish all year and it’s no different at the back end. The moorings, boats and weed beds make it a haven for fry…..I find it best to fish first thing in the morning….before the sailors are there or last thing at night. Cast literally along the pontoons for best results as the fry congregate here.
On Ernie’s Point you can either wade out 20m and cast towards the open water or cast back into the creek, often along a weed bed. My secret spot in where the old pontoon is now resting, just past the bushes right on the bend. It’s extremely deep here and allows you to cast along a weed bed that appears every year…..time and time again it produces at the back end….yet still relatively unfished.
The North Arm never really produces good fry feeding…….occasionally in Dickinsons along the weed beds, or right at the top of the arm from The Transformer to Tim Appleton’s again along the weed beds that are dying off…but not in any numbers for me.
Carrot Creek and Barnhill Creek are a much better proposition……weed beds often appear either side leaving a deep channel in the middle an ideal area for the bank and boat angler.
Grafham Water
Traditionally a slower starter than Rutland; and can be difficult early season if you don’t know the water. Things have also changed over the last few years (water conditions and the new shrimp) and we’ve noticed a difference in area’s that are holding fish. the fish also tend to run the banks making it very difficult for boat anglers as they simply cannot fish close enough in !!
Early Season – March – Mid April
(Patterns are exactly the same as Rutland for times of the season except Scruffy hare’s ears and Quill Crunchers are a must all season !)
Hill Farm The Stumps and Harts Bluff will guarantee you fish although they tend to be very close to the bank at this time of year and stock fish.
Hedge End allows you access to slightly deeper water from the bank, and it always throws up some overwintered fish…usually a decent brown or two is caught here.
Pylon Point and Deep Water Point Are the two most underrated area’s of Grafham all season long they produce yet are hardly fished except by locals….probably because there extremely difficult to get to unless you know.
You go into the village of Grafham itself and turn first left (towards the pig farms and caravan park) if you continue on this road you will come to a car park for Hill Farm and the Stumps etc….
However if you take the first left again signposted Church Road Nos 1; 3; 5 and follow the road all the way down you will come to a small car park in between Pylon and Deep Water Point
G buoy – crowded and overrated……and not as consistent as Pylon point, Hedge End and Hill Farm. The hot Spot is right on the point casting at the yellow G buoy itself…this gives allows you to fish the deepest water.
Gaynes Cove – Again a good all season part of the water with an average depth of 15ft. I personally like to fish in the Dam corner where the small fences comes into the water; or in the top corner directly in front of the car park entrance (so you literally cast across the mouth towards Sludge point.
Lodge Frontage – Both Arms will allow you access to deep water and hold fish all through the season. You’ll get a mixture here, stockies and overwintered fish. Do not underestimate this area….it’s the most consistent bank spot on the whole reservoir.
Mid Season Mid April – End Of June
The best time to fish the best reservoir in the country….you are almost guaranteed a good day. With fish in the 3 -5lb range in every bag !!
Especially if you stick to the following area’s
Rainbow Point – a small bay near Savages and a hole that holds resident fish….35 yards out at this time of year it’s almost impossible not to catch
Savages – The most consistent place for resident fish at this time of year….either side of the creek is good (but no further down than the bull rushes 300m) about 30 – 60 yards out and along the weed beds for best results.
Gaynes Cove – the depth of water makes it ideal for nymph fishing – the whole cove will produce.
Sailing Club to Seat – Again very underrated, but an area that is consistent in producing both stock fish and overwintered fish. The two hot spots are 20 yards either side of the point (2 deep holes) A shrimp anglers paradise
Hill Farm – Again the stones to Harts bluff provide consistent sport at this time of year; it’s best however to fish with the wind off your back
Hedge End – A long walk for bank anglers but the sport can be fantastic……only enough room for 2 or 3 anglers to fish it well . Again you really want the wind off your back
Pylon Point & Deep Water Point fish either right on the point, or just round either corner again so the wind is favourable. These area’s will produce both stock fish and quality resident fish. Last year Deep Water point consistently produced fish in the 3 – 5lb class when the fish were feeding heavily on the shrimps.
G buoy – It will produce fish, but mostly stockies and it gets very busy with kids, and day-trippers, I prefer The other points (Pylon, Deep Water or Hedge End) however at this time of year it’s also worth a go in front of the willows (near the dam) this is an area where silt has built up over a number of years making it quite shallow. It has excellent buzzer hatches as a result. My favourite spot is past the willows about 20 yards along the Dam casting back at G buoy.
Summer Months July – September
Savages will continue to produce quality fish all through the summer; the weed beds will become established along the margins holding fry and corixa but there will be a deep channel in the centre; fish off the weed beds for best results.
The Harbour Arms; Seat, G buoy and Dam are really the only viable places to fish from the bank all other area’s are simply too shallow and the fish move
out into the deeper water at this time of year. (however the new killer shrimp kept them in the margins last year so things may be changing)
From the boat I would usually target the Daphnia feeding fish through the open water at this time of year
K – G buoy
C – E buoy
P – B buoy
Savages – S buoy
The actual marker buoy and 50 yards round it is always a hotspot…the anchor chains hold weed and food so attract fish…..it draws them there like a magnet !
The fish will be feeding heavily now and willing to chase a pulled fly so it’s blobs and sparklers all the way usually on a di-3 or 5 sweep line that produces a curve to induce the take.
Back End – October – December
This can be exceptional at Grafham; as the fish that have been feeding heavily on daphnia and Shrimp all summer and have silvered up and packed on weight they now come into the shallows and within reach of the bank angler.
All you must do is think of the features on Grafham – the fish holding area’s..
Savages and rainbow point from a boat will be tough to beat; there now will be huge weed beds almost 50 yards out from the bank……but fishing along these with fry patterns in a boat can be very productive.
Lodge Arms and Harbour – the most consistent fry feeding place from the bank; the moorings, weed beds and stones draw in the fry and the large trout….always worth an hour or two for that special fish….Dave Barker caught the record rainbow from here in 1992 at 13 lb 13oz……Bob Wallenger caught the record Brown in 2009 at 16lb 2oz.
I had a record 6 fish bag limit of 34 lb from here in 2009. as well as countless other bags in excess of 25lb…
Perry Point – Almost as good as the Harbour and hardly ever fished….(especially from the concrete slipway) if the harbours been fishing and suddenly died try here.
Seat and Sailing Club – again one of my favourite areas for big fish in Grafham at this time of year….if your fishing from a boat you should be around the marker buoys…..if your from the bank 20 yards each side of the point. Shrimp Feeders are abundant from June – January
Gaynes Cove – any fry tend to get pushed into the corners by the bird hide, or by the dam so it’s here that you should fish.
Dam – The tower on the dam has concrete stantions in the water, it’s also the deepest part of the whole dam….fry congregate here and so do the big
fish…I’ve lost count at the number of 5lb fish I’ve caught here (over 50 in a weekend once) including a double and a record 8 fish limit bag !
The whole of the Dam is an Excellent area for Shrimp feeders – keep low and casts to a minimum, cast along the dam with a light rod (try to fish 20 ft out) along the weed line and hang on – I routinely use a 3 or 4 weight rod for ultimate excitement
North Shore – Again Shrimp Feeders will be your number 1 target from June – January. The Washing Line on a Floater with Foam daddies and quill crunchers or hares ears will be practically impossible to beat, often you will catch fish round your feet just yards from the dam,
Kick up the stones – known as the ‘Grafham Shuffle’ for a little legal shrimp ground baiting.
Cheer Rob
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